Friday, July 27, 2012

Last days in Paris


On my last day in Paris, I wandered the streets around the Palais Royal looking fort that one souvenir that would become the capstone of my time in this city.   I decided that I wanted an old medal from the “Monnaie”, or French mint.   After the American Revolution, when the Patriots wanted to commemorate their victories and heroes, the standard souvenir was a medal.  Franklin began the design process with the help of his friends at the “Monnaie”.  It lost some impetus, but was revived by Jefferson while he was ambassador, before he left Paris to return to the U.S. to serve in George Washington’s cabinet.  My research says that there were 11 medals struck to remember important victories of the war. They were also intended to honor specific heroes. The list reads as you  might expect, but there were also some surprises.  Of course, there was Washington, Horatio Gates, “Mad” Anthony Wayne, and John Paul Jones.   But there was also ones for everyday soldiers.  Another medal that I learned about was one minted to honor the “hero of Two Worlds”, the Marquis de Lafayette.




I did some research, knew what they looked like and even how much they should cost.  Now all I had to do was find them.  There are coin and militaria shops at the Palais Royal and although several knew what I was talking about, no one had anything for me to purchase.   They sent me to the rue de Richelieu.   Up and down the street I went with no luck.  It was then that I was reminded what else was on the this rue.  In her book, Alice calls the rue, Street of  Four American Presidents”.  While I was looking for the medals, I snapped pictures of the spots where many of the “Patriots” lived when they first arrived in Paris. 






At Number 17, John Adams lived for a short time.  Although the original building no longer exists, it was still fun to think about him moving in to what was once an elegant hotel.   Alice and I had a conversation about Adams and his thrifty ways.  He feared that he was not spending the money of his nation as wisely as he should, and when he came back to Paris with more official responsibilities, he moved to the outer parts of the city where real estate was more affordable.



Thomas Jefferson lived in another hotel on this street.  The number was 30, and it too, was once an elegant hotel.  Since he was the “official” ambassador, after the French recognized the U.S. as a country of its own, he believed that it was necessary to establish an embassy.   Consequently, he moved to a spot on the Champs Elysees where he both lived and received representatives of the government.  (He loved shopping for furnishings for the embassy, and since Adams was right about how to spend US. money, Jefferson ended up paying for and keeping many of the furnishing he bought.   Some are still at Monticello).
Although these outside doors often don't look impressive, they usually open to a beautiful courtyard with a garden, parking, and a lovely front door. 



Gouvernor Morris, the American ambassador following Jefferson lived here at Number 63.  Then it was the Hotel Richelieu, and today it is still a hotel, the Malte.  (By the way, my students always ask about this man's name.   "Gouvernor" was the maiden name of his mother, so the family chose to use that name for their first son).  Morris witnessed the Reign of Terror, and was aware of the execution of many aristocrats.   Adrienne, Lafayette's wife was arrested and preparations were being made for her trip to the guillotine.  He and James Monroe intervened and were able to save her.
James Monroe became ambassador after Morris.  He lived in this building that is still a hotel.  He rescued Thomas Paine from prison for speaking out against the violence of the Revolution.  He installed Paine in a room here also.   (Paine was very ill at this time---he later died, and some historians believe that he succumbed from Bright's disease).



The fourth president to reside on rue de Richeleu was not actually a  “Patriot”.  He was John Quincy Adams, who arrived in Paris as ambassador in 1815.  He had lived in Paris previously with his father during the war era.  When he came to Paris during this later time, it was because of his own abilities as a diplomat and statesman. 

No luck on the medals, but I did discover that copies were made for the American Bicentennial in 1976.  I think I would be happy with those.  I’ll keep you posted. 

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